‘UFC What to Choose wishes a good autumn wine fair to all Bordeaux producers. Dated October, its latest issue devotes 8 pages to “the great fraud fair”with an investigation “behind the scenes of the wine industry. An opaque world that hides heavy secrets. » Moorings, blends and other falsifications are reviewed with reference to cases from Burgundy (two are discussed) and, above all, from Bordeaux (ten cases are discussed). Among the legal cases that have inspired the courts of Bordeaux and Libourne in recent years, what to choose?
The UFC opted for a list à la Prévert, in the attack for contempt won by the Interprofessional Council of Bordeaux Wines (CIVB) against the comments on the phytoresidue analysis of the pesticide figure Valérie Murat (who must pay 125,000 € to appeal) of the convictions of the winemaker Hervé Grandeau (which led him to leave the presidency of the Federation of Grands Vins de Bordeaux, FGVB), through judgments against Grands Vins de Gironde ( GVG) and against Vincent Lataste (going to cassation). Not to mention the file, withheld, of the frauds of businessman Yanka Ferrer (revealed by Vitisphere and not the Confédération Paysanne as reported inUFC What to Choose*), but also a recent breaking of wine fraud in Spain in the Médoc and even the historic case of the trap Robert Geens… If the legal difficulties of the 2012 classification of Saint-Émilion grands crus or the twists and turns of the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc, the land brands are well cited in the example of Bordeaux de Maucaillou. A true maxi best menu!
Many, this collection of famous cases removes the light of Bordeaux wines. Which is not first for What to choose. It was enough to inflame the complaints of Bordeaux operators, who often complain that they are the center of all the bad media and legal intent. The latter easily points to the first national wine department, when other French wines are not so often targeted. Hitting the headlines, the activities of Raphaël Michel in the Rhône Valley or Jean Albrecht in Alsace, however, eliminated this whiff of the whipping boy. For Bordeaux, it is “try again [sont] faithfully reported in the Sud-Ouest newspaper – while in other regions the press is less attentive” judge for his part the consultant Franck Dubourdieu in a recent forum. For its part, the fraud prevention service in Bordeaux has always shown that it is no more flexible in the Gironde than elsewhere.
40% of Bordeaux wine is blended
If there are no large disclosures in the file What to choosethe allusions give it another dimension. “Are the frauds revealed in recent years the tree that hides a forest of trafficking? » pose of journalists Arnaud de Blauwe and Pascale Barlet, relying on the exchange of the former president of the fourth correctional chamber of the Bordeaux judicial court, Caroline Baret, who is now retired and believes, undoubtedly according to the size of the case he saw. pass, yes“at [son] opinion, about 40% of Bordeaux wine is mixed”. Another implication is the conflict of interest in the wine sector. In a pirouette, the reporters reported that“After several months of investigation, we feel that we have only touched the subject. It is appropriate that we make other contacts, that we deepen our research… And that we also verify these statements according to which some people with high positions find themselves in the middle of a conflict of interest. »
Deconstructing the image of Épinal in the wine sector, the dossier concludes that “This opacity in the sector remains unknown to consumers. On the shelves, the price is not a reliable indicator of quality, the customer only relies on the label stuck on the bottle to make a choice. However, as is the practice can’t make the monk, the label can’t make the wine. “L’UFC What to Choose wishes a good autumn wine fair to all Bordeaux producers.
*: Another estimate, the 2022 harvest should pass “Heavy rain fell on the fields during the summer, favoring diseases like mold”. While the summer is particularly dry, which reduces the health pressure to a minimum, but emphasizes the spring water stress (with yield losses that can be large in Bordeaux, in the South, in the Rhône Valley, etc.).